Along with hormonal acne melasma is one of the most common concerns women are writing to us about. This super stubborn skin conditions manifests on the face as brown or gray spots and the biggest misconception about melasma is that it is triggered mainly by sun exposure.  

However, melasma has one of the strongest hormonal links of any skin condition, and estrogen is the central hormonal driver. While sunlight is indeed an external trigger, estrogen is the internal “fuel” that amplifies pigmentation.

Why Estrogen Is Strongly Linked to Melasma

Research shows that up to 50–70% of pregnant women develop melasma. Women using hormonal contraception or hormone therapy also see higher rates. This points to estrogen’s direct role.

Estrogen:

• Increases melanin production
• Makes melanocytes more reactive to UV and heat
• Prolongs pigment production longer than UV exposure alone

Essentially, estrogen “sensitizes” the pigment-making cells (melanocytes), so even small triggers create exaggerated pigmentation.

How Estrogen Affects Melanocytes (Pigment Cells)

A) Estrogen Increases Tyrosinase Activity

Tyrosinase is the main enzyme required for melanin synthesis.

Estrogen binds to estrogen receptors (ER-α and ER-β) on melanocytes →
this upregulates tyrosinase, causing overproduction of melanin.

This means:

• You make more pigment from the same amount of sunlight
• Pigment lasts longer
• Pigment is harder to fade

B) Estrogen Increases Melanocyte Proliferation

Estrogen encourages melanocytes to:

• Multiply faster
• Grow larger dendrites (the arms that transfer pigment to skin cells)

More melanocytes + more melanin transferred = stronger pigmentation patterns.

C) Estrogen Makes Skin More Photosensitive

High estrogen increases:

• number of melanosomes (pigment carriers)
• size of melanosomes
• pigment transfer to keratinocytes

This makes skin respond to UV more aggressively — even indirect sunlight, heat, or visible light.

This is why melasma darkens:

• just from cooking
• warm environments
• brief periods in sunlight
• even inside a car
• or through windows

Why Some Women Get Estrogen-Driven Melasma and Others Don’t

Several factors increase susceptibility:

Genetic predisposition

People with more active estrogen receptors in their skin are more prone.

Skin phototype

Fitzpatrick III–V have higher baseline melanocyte activity.

Sluggish detox pathways (liver metabolism)

If estrogen is not efficiently metabolized (poor methylation, impaired Phase II detox), circulating estrogen remains higher → more melasma flares.

Hormonal fluctuations

• Pregnancy
• Perimenopause (estrogen dominance episodes)
• Hormonal birth control
• Hormone replacement therapy
• IVF treatments (very common melasma trigger)

Thyroid dysfunction

Hypothyroidism often coexists with melasma because:

• Estrogen becomes elevated relative to progesterone
• Estrogen clearance slows down
• Skin becomes more sensitive to pigment triggers

Why Melasma Often Flares in Perimenopause

People expect estrogen to drop in perimenopause — but early and mid-perimenopause often causes relative estrogen dominance due to falling progesterone.

So even if total estrogen is not high, unopposed estrogen becomes higher.

Effects:

• More sensitivity to sunlight
• More reactive pigment cells
• More stubborn melasma patches

This is why melasma often worsens in:

• 35–50 year olds
• Women with irregular cycles
• Those with PMS, fibroids, endometriosis, or estrogen dominance symptoms

Estrogen Receptors in Melasma Skin

Research shows that melasma patches have:

• higher numbers of estrogen receptors
• higher activity of estrogen receptor β

This means the affected areas are literally more responsive to estrogen, which explains:

✔ why melasma is patchy
✔ why the same person may only get melasma on cheeks/forehead
✔ why it’s so persistent

Can Balancing Hormones Help Melasma?

It can, especially when melasma is hormonally driven.

Improvements often seen with:

• lowering estrogen dominance
• supporting estrogen detox (via liver pathways)
• correcting progesterone deficiency
• managing blood sugar (high insulin worsens melasma)
• treating hypothyroidism

But even with hormonal balancing, UV/heat protection and topical therapy remain essential.

Why Hormonal Melasma Needs Gentle, Barrier-Supporting Skincare

Estrogen-driven melasma is highly reactive.

When estrogen is high, the skin becomes:

• more easily inflamed
• weaker in barrier function
• slower to repair
• extremely prone to rebound pigmentation

This is why harsh actives, over-exfoliation, and skin irritation make melasma dramatically worse — the hormonal environment amplifies the inflammation → melanin cycle.

Here is our routine for melasma control 

🌞 Morning Routine (Protect, Calm, Brighten)

1. Ray gel cleanser OR water only

• Key Role: Gentle cleansing without stripping the skin.
• Why: Maintaining the barrier is crucial for melasma because irritation triggers pigment production.

2. Pep Talk – Youth Serum

Main Ingredients:

• Tetrapeptide-30:  Helps regulate pigment production by modulating melanocyte activity and supporting an even skin tone. It’s particularly useful for melasma because it targets hyperpigmentation without irritation.
• Bakuchiol: A gentle, plant-based alternative to retinol. Reduces pigmentation and fine lines, improves skin tone, and supports collagen without causing photosensitivity.

How it works for melasma: These actives support skin renewal and pigment regulation without irritating the skin.

3. Aura – All-in-One Moisturizer

Main Ingredients:

• Ceramides: Strengthen the skin barrier, lock in moisture, and reduce sensitivity that can worsen melasma.
• Provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support, protecting the skin from daily stressors.

4. SPF (Essential)

• Why: UV exposure is the primary trigger for melasma, so sunscreen is mandatory. Tinted or mineral SPF also helps against visible light, which can worsen pigmentation.

🌙 Evening Routine (Repair + Pigment Control)

1. Keep Calm

• A brightening and clarifying cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, and impurities without irritating melasma-prone skin.

2. Reviver – Exfoliating Serum

Main Ingredients:

• Mandelic Acid (AHA): Gentle exfoliant derived from almonds. Promotes cell turnover, helps fade hyperpigmentation, and is less irritating than glycolic acid, making it ideal for melasma.
• Arbutin: Melanin inhibitor that helps reduce existing dark spots and prevent new pigmentation.
• Glucosamine: Supports pigment correction by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin, and also aids in gentle exfoliation.

How it works: These ingredients combine to brighten skin, reduce dark spots, and smooth texture, all while minimizing irritation.
Frequency: Start 2–3 nights/week and adjust based on tolerance.

3. Pep Talk – Youth Serum

• Same benefits as AM: supports repair and enhances the effects of Reviver without causing irritation.

4. Aura – All-in-One Moisturizer

Main Ingredients:

• Ceramides: Continue barrier repair and hydration.
• Locks in the actives from Reviver and Pep Talk to maximize overnight efficacy.